“One of the best trails I have ever done.”

“Stunning views!”

“Worth getting up early for.”

“Definitely a gem.”

As I scrolled through the AllTrails comments for the Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo hike, I was somewhat skeptical. Many times I have found that other peoples’ opinions on a hike don’t actually match the reality of the trail itself. I try to manage my expectations.

Nevertheless, it was clear that this peak-to-peak hike was the best on the island, offering an array of views that included peaks and foliage. I heeded other travelers’ advice and got up rather early to beat the crowds. As I zoomed up the mountainside in my Clio rental car, I entered into a cloudy mist around 3500 feet in altitude. At first I was discouraged, assuming that I would be hiking nearly blind. At the last possible moment, however, my car cleared the cloud cover and the sun greeted me as I approached the trailhead at 6000 feet.

And oh, the views!

Mountains for days.

Yellow wildflowers setting the landscape on fire.

Unique volcanic rock formations.

I was in my version of paradise.

The first few miles were pretty epic. I stopped frequently to take photos and marvel at the 360 degree views. The surrounding bird calls echoed and ricocheted throughout the canyons far below. There were a few other visitors out and about, but for the most part I had the mountains to myself. I encountered genuine awe and wonder at every step.

And there were so many steps.

The beginning was mostly downhill, and I mentally made note that I had to save enough energy for the return journey. I was impressed with the quality of the path – well fashioned steps at certain parts and cables set up during the exposed sections.

A few miles in, the trail splits, and the western portion has a series of pedestrian tunnels. These were a fun addition that I wasn’t expecting. I hadn’t brought my headlamp, so my cellphone’s flashlight was necessary to navigate the pitch black tunnels cutting through the mountains.

I had never intended to go all the way to Pico Ruivo, which would have involved some pretty hefty mileage. I merely hiked until I was ready to turn and head back, inwardly preparing for a 2,000 feet elevation gain.

Yes, it was tough, but I took my time and once again stopped often to marvel at the natural world around me.

When I finally made it back to my starting point, I was exhausted but appreciative of the incredible experience.

I could now officially echo some of my fellow AllTrails hikers.

“One of the best trails I have ever done.”