Istria: Croatia’s Hidden Gem
What comes to mind when you picture Croatia? The glistening Adriatic Sea? Ancient walled coastal cities? Thousands of idyllic islands?
Perhaps, like me, your knowledge of this Balkan country is minimal. Over a year ago, I wouldn’t have been able to locate Croatia on a map. As I grew in my understanding of this phenomenal region, I began to recognize the myriad of possible adventures that awaited: beaches, diving, boating, and Mediterranean havens surrounded by the sea.
Then someone mentioned the Istrian peninsula, suggesting that I visit this portion of the country located further north than the coastal enchantments.
I drove away from the energy-packed cities situated on the water and cruised along the highway, entering a region that borders Slovenia to the north and sidles up against Italy to the west. When I reached the Istrian peninsula, there was almost an immediate change in the landscape. The aggressive mountainous countryside gave way to softer rolling hills. The air lost its distinct scent of sea and took on a robust earthy smell. Vineyards were everywhere, interspersed with small homes and forested regions.
After a short while, I arrived in Hum (pronounced Hume). This was an intentional detour to check out the “smallest city/town in the world”, population 30. This adorable place is completely walled in, featuring a few small shops, a church, and some well-kept houses. I walked through the quiet town, careful not to skid on the slick cobblestone streets. A local merchant offered me a taste of Hum’s signature beverage – mistletoe liqueur. Even though it didn’t take long to see the entire town, I stayed for well over an hour, enjoying the uniqueness of the space and its surrounding land.
The interior region of Istria is world-renowned for its truffles, so the following day, I embarked on a unique adventure:
Truffle hunting!
A local family, Prodan, offered a walk-about and tasting to experience the world of truffles in Istria. I met and interacted with the truffle experts and was able to enter the surrounding forest with the dogs in search of these highly-cherished fungi.
I followed our guide, a third generation truffle hunter, into an area blissfully shaded by trees. We let the dogs do the work, frolicking about and then rooting around in the ground when they caught the telltale scent. This was unlike any hike or nature stroll I’ve ever taking; it was a grand treasure hunt for something special and all natural. As we traipsed back up towards the house, carrying our loot, Mrs. Prodan had prepared a delicious truffle meal to showcase the unique flavor of this woodsy/musky edible item.
Everything was delicious, including the homemade wine and truffle honey ice cream for dessert.
I later noticed Prodan’s logo as I was finishing up my visit on the family’s property. Growing with Nature. How beautiful and appropriate that a family chooses to grow its business alongside of the natural world. Istria felt like Italy, but retained the alluring qualities of Croatian culture.
If you happen to visit Croatia, don’t forget about Istria! It’s not so much as a “hidden gem” as a less-visited region of the country that has countless of unique experiences and delightful things to discover.
And don’t forget to try the truffles… and perhaps even decide to find them first!