My left foot gradually started to slide down the slick embankment, so I made a quick shuffle and hopped onto a rock in the middle of the mucky path.

Only it wasn’t a rock.

It was a rock-shaped clump of mud.

I sighed internally as I watched my foot squelch into the mire, resigning myself to the fact that I would be unable to avoid getting my feet dirty and wet. I gradually felt the water ooze in, leaving my toes feeling uncomfortably soggy.

The Dolly Sods wilderness is an incredible space in West Virginia. For over a year, I had been trying to do a 22-mile loop that would take 3 days, and 2 nights. The AllTrails app displayed a myriad of comments about the muddiness of the trail, but I wasn’t quite expecting to be walking through a bog for a good portion of the first day.

In the beginning, I took my time, side-stepping and using my trekking poles to navigate the muddier sections. At some point, I gave up, understanding that my feet were wet, would get wetter, and might not dry out until I got home. It may sound like a miserable experience, but I embraced the conditions and leaned into the moment. The weather was misty, and the foggy atmosphere left the landscape feeling windswept and magical.

After 7 miles, tiny creeks began to crisscross the trail with the promise of more significant water sources to come. After another mile, I spotted a good campsite under a tree covering, soft pine needles offering a comfy spot to pitch my tent. The Nemo Hornet was a recent REI purchase that I impressed me with its ease of set-up and light-weight nature. Its roomy interior offered a cozy place to lounge before dozing off for the night. I burrowed deeply within my sleeping bag, grateful for its down filling that kept me warm against the chill of the night.

The next morning, I slow-rolled breaking down camp, taking my time to make coffee and oatmeal while letting my shoes dry out (partially) in the sun. When I started out, the mud gradually started to subside, and I found myself grateful for a simple solid dirt trail.

The highlight of day 2 was an overlook called Lion’s Head. I stashed my heavy pack at the base of a pile of huge boulders. I was told to expect a hefty scramble upwards that wasn’t well marked. I met a couple backpackers a few feet up who decided it wasn’t worth the trail-blazing effort. I decided to continue, venturing upward and onward, with frequent breaks to check my phone in order to ensure I was somewhat close to where AllTrails thought I should be.

Finally, after what felt like 300 feet of upward elevation, I saw a wide expanse of rock that promised to be the summit. With a little more exploring, I found a good rest point that afforded a side view of the lion’s head, the tell-tale profile the summit is named after. I chomped on a snack, wishing I had brought my water bottle up with me rather than leave it down with my pack. It’s wasn’t a particularly hot day, but the sun was bright, and I was rather sweaty from the morning’s endeavors.

The journey back down to the main trail was also adventurous, but I eventually made it and continued on my way. An hour or so later, I happily stumbled upon my second campsite in an area commonly referred to as “The Forks.” Two wide and fast-flowing creeks converge with a great deal of space for tents and campfires. I found a shady spot right next to the water and quickly claimed it as my own. The water beckoned to me with its cool, refreshing cascades, so I tore off a layer, and hopped right in. There were crayfish to catch, rocks to explore, and perfect sitting spots to soothe my aching feet.

Dinner and sleep time came early, with an impromptu stargazing moment halfway through the night.

The next day I was tired, but content. The final few miles were not as muddy as the first day, but at this point I was ok with the water seeping through, knowing I would soon be able to slip on my oh-so-comfortable flip-flops.

Later on that day at home, after a glorious shower and a delicious dinner, I reflected upon my time at Dolly Sods. In the moment, backpacking can often be quite challenging and tough on the body. I sometimes have to actively push against letting my spirits sag. Yet the adventure stays with me, those moments I spend in and with nature. It makes everything worth it, even the mud.