The Crystal Clear Waters of Silfra
Tucked into the center of Iceland’s Þingvellir [Thingvellir] National Park, Silfra is a rift in the divergent mid-Atlantic tectonic plate that is fed by glacier melt year-round. The fissure offers an unparalleled snorkeling experience for adventurers willing to brave the 35°F water. It’s a surreal underwater landscape; the clarity of the water creates a sense of otherworldly beauty and the unique geological wonders are worth the frigid temps.
The Initial Journey
The drive to Þingvellir is a scenic adventure in itself. Located as a popular stop along Iceland’s Ring Road, the rugged landscape offered views of snow-capped peaks in the distance alongside glaciers, tree copses, and open skies. There’s also some fun history at Þingvellir National Park’s main area: the ancient Althingi, one of the world’s oldest parliaments, once convened in this beautiful setting.
Suiting Up for my Dive
For those who have a working knowledge of Iceland, the name Silfra is renowned, often times conjuring up images of crystal-clear glacial water. Because of the near-freezing temperature, donning a drysuit is mandatory. This, in and of itself, was a somewhat daunting task for the uninitiated. I wrestled my way into the suit, peeling it up and over my thermal layers. My limbs got caught a few times, but with a little help from my guide, I was successful. This drysuit, combined with the insulating undergarments, promised to keep me warm and buoyant in the frigid waters.
The Descent
There was a short walk to the entrance site, to which I awkwardly waddled in my many layers. The wind picked up and it began to snow, so the ambiance for the adventure was even more intense. Walking down the steps and then transitioning to the water felt like stepping into another dimension. I could easily floated on the surface, thanks to all the trapped air in the dry suit. When I flipped onto my belly and donned the face mask, I was struck by the water’s unbelievable clarity – visibility extends over 320 feet! I was beginning to realize why Silfra is frequently cited as one of the top dive sites in the world. The exceptional clarity is caused by the water being filtered through porous lava rock, a process that can take decades.
An Underwater Wonderland
While the initial cold water was quite a shock, I soon got semi-used to the temperature and began gliding over the Silfra Hall, the first of four distinct sections of the fissure. Every detail of the submerged world was visible: the rocky edges of the fissure walls, the bright green “troll hair” algae, and the occasional fish swimming lazily by.
I then kept up with my guide as we moved into the Silfra Cathedral, the fissure’s deepest and most dramatic section. Because the fissure walls rise up on either side, it creates a cathedral-like space with a depth that plunges down to 75 feet. The sheer scale and beauty of this underwater canyon were humbling. As the light filtered down through the water, it cast a magical glow that highlighted the vibrant blues and greens.
The Magic of the Blue Lagoon
The journey continued into the Silfra Blue Lagoon, a shallow area where the water’s color transforms into an almost surreal shade of blue. Floating here, I felt: (1) a profound sense of peace and (2) extremely cold. At this point, I had been in the water for over 30 minutes, which is the typical recommended time for this excursion. I was torn between further exploring the tranquility of Silfra and the need to warm up my hands and feet. (My lips were also completely numb).
Reflections on the Experience
As I emerged from the water, I was surprised at the mixed emotions I was experiencing. I was relieved to have completed this challenging activity, awestruck from the sights I saw, and melancholic that this long-anticipated adventure had come to an end. Silfra had offered me a glimpse into a hidden world, and it was a deeply moving experience.
I warmed up with a hot drink provided by our guide and removed my outer layers. I was surprised that, for the most part, my underlayer was mostly dry. I donned my winter hat and shrugged into my hiking clothes, ready to find other fun places to explore in this place of raw power and pristine wonder.
10 out of 10 would recommend.