Click here to read Part I.

I woke up on Cat Ba Island to the sound of birds chirping and morning light slipping through the curtains. Waking up in a quiet village was such a contrast to the city rush I’d left behind just a day earlier. Breakfast was a humble bowl of noodle soup.

It was light, brothy, and, most importantly, gluten-free. I sat on the porch in my sandals, watching the homestay slowly come to life around me.

Then it was time to board the day cruise.

Curious Creatures and Coconuts

The cruise ship was a two-level beauty, not necessarily luxurious but certainly charming. I met a handful of other fellow travelers, all of whom (except me) were traveling in pairs. We quickly bonded over sunscreen as we set sail into the calm waters of Lan Ha Bay.

Lan Ha feels like the quieter cousin to Ha Long Bay. It’s just as stunning, but with fewer boats and more silence. We spent a good chunk of the morning simply cruising, weaving between towering limestone islands and spotting tiny fishing huts floating in the blue. Everyone’s phones were out at the beginning as we snapped photos, but then folks started to relax and enjoy being in-the-moment.

One of our stops was a small marine science center tucked along the edge of the bay. As a science educator, I was genuinely intrigued. A local researcher explained a few of the experiments they were doing, things like coral restoration and monitoring fish populations.

We got to touch a few fish and feed others, which was weirdly delightful.

Afterwards, we cruised onward while sipping coconut coffee on deck. It was perfect – creamy, sweet, icy, and utterly refreshing.

Beaches and Sunset Parties

Lunch was served family-style with the other travelers. Shared platters of stir-fried veggies, fish, rice, tofu, and more floated around the table as we circulated dishes and made small talk.

Later in the afternoon, we climbed into kayaks and paddled through some caves. Depending on the direction of the tide, this has the potential to be a dangerous activity, and well-meaning travelers have been known to become trapped in these caves requiring rescue.

Next, we made our way towards a pristine, almost-too-perfect beach. The sand was soft and the water warm. I spent a good hour swimming, collecting shells, and soaking in the scenery. There were moments where I had the entire bay to myself.

Eventually, I transferred from the day cruise to another boat where I’d be spending the night. It had an actual cabin with air conditioning (praise be), and after a sun-filled day, stepping into that cool room was pure bliss.

We set off again for a sunset cruise, and this time, there was music playing and cocktails being mixed up at the back of the boat. I  chatted with an older French couple who spoke limited English, but we made it work. I got to polish up on my French, and we swapped travel photos. They were delightful.

Before dinner, we had a casual cooking class and learned how to make Vietnamese summer rolls. Mine were a little lopsided but no one was judging.

After dinner, we went fishing for squid off the back of the boat. Standing under the moonlight with a fishing line in hand felt like something out of a travel novel. I caught a prawn. That’s all.

Slow Morning, Saying Farewell

The next morning was slow in the best way. I had breakfast up on deck and then spent the rest of the time stretched out on a lounge chair, reading and occasionally glancing up to take in the views one last time. There was the quiet hum of the engine and the soft lapping of waves.

Eventually, the ship made its way back to the main harbor. My bag was packed, my shoulders were sun-kissed, and my heart felt that bittersweet tug that comes at the end of a really good adventure.

Now on to the next one.