When the bus from Lan Ha Bay finally wound its way into the Ninh Bình countryside, I stepped off into the darkness and was instantly charmed. My homestay, Trang An Retreat, felt delightfully semi-remote. It glowed in the soft lamplight, and flower-laden walkways greeted me. I could hear a faint hum of night insects, and I felt myself smiling before even walking inside my quaint bungalow.

Day One: Biking, Coffee, and Village Strolls

The next morning began on two wheels. I rented a bicycle from the homestay and pedaled into the patchwork of nearby villages. The morning mist shifted through the rice paddies, and I made a quick stop at a cafe for yet another Vietnamese coffee to start my day off right.

The bike path wound between fields where farmers tended their crops with the quintessential bamboo conical hat. I gradually made my way to Tam Coc, a slightly larger town, and browsed through stalls full of handmade crafts and local goods. Hopping back on my bike, I found a small local nail shop and treated myself to a pedicure and foot massage. My legs had earned it!

Later, back at the homestay, I slipped into the pool and then drifted into a contented nap before that evening’s dinner.

Forest Sunset Bar and Restaurant, just a short walk away, served up a meal that was incredible for its price point. The salad was crisp and fresh, paired with comforting Vietnamese dishes all framed within the fading golden light of dusk.

Day Two: Motorbike, Mountains & Pagodas

As the dawn colors hit the sky, I was already in the saddle of a motorbike, heading to the Hua Ma Cave area. In an attempt to beat the heat, I began the scenic hike early, making my way to a lookout that revealed back the landscape in layers. The 500-step climb offers 360-degree views over rice fields and the limestone karsts. I was sweaty and my legs were tired as I climbed toward the top. When the full panorama finally was before me, I spotted ribbons of river, golden paddies, and jagged karsts. It was worth all the steps!

That afternoon, I rode over to the Bái Đính Pagoda. I wandered the ornate grounds and took in the serenity of the place that blended both old and new. Towards sunset, I made my way up the spiral tower (stupa) and watched the sun dip behind the landscape.

Day Three: The Finale – Tràng An by Boat

On my final morning, I embarked on the UNESCO-designated Tràng An boat tour. This was certainly a highlight of the entire trip, and words can’t truly capture how awestruck I was throughout this entire 2-hour float. A local woman skillfully rowed the traditional wooden sampan boat through waters lined with caves. I passed karst pinnacles that rose majestically from the river and  spiritual grottoes that had been around for centuries. It was so peaceful and cinematic, like traveling through a living painting.

As the tour ended and I prepared to fly home, there was a gentle sadness in my chest. Southeast Asia was an incredible place to visit for 2.5 weeks, and I can’t wait to return.