Some adventures start with a high-octane surge of energy. Others begin with a series of buses, ferries, and electric carts. Somehow this is exactly what made getting to Lan Ha Bay feel so memorable.

I left Hanoi early in the morning, sleepy but excited. I was not expecting an intricate sequence of transportation: a short motorbike ride, a bus through the winding outskirts of the city, a short ferry trip, another bus across Cat Ba Island, a small motorboat skimming across the water, and finally, an electric cart ride along a tiny village road. It sounds exhausting (and parts of it were), but it also felt like I was gradually shifting away from the chaos of the city and into something much calmer.

Arrival in Viet Ha Village

When I finally reached Viet Ha, a small village on Cat Ba Island, I was welcomed by the sight of a dreamy homestay nestled among flowers. Bougainvillea spilled down the walls and butterflies flitted from bloom to bloom. There was a stillness in the air, and I took a deep, flower-scented breath. It felt like I’d stumbled into a hidden garden.

The owners of the homestay greeted me warmly and showed me to my room. It was a simple bungalow surrounded by greenery. It didn’t take long before I had gotten settled and took a gratifying shower to clean off the travel sweat.

A Hike with a View (and Wires)

That afternoon, I set out on a hike up to an old Navy communications tower perched on a limestone peak. The trail was rugged and narrow in parts, shaded by thick forest that suddenly gave way to sweeping views of the island and beyond. My guide, a cheerful local in flip-flops (because of course), casually mentioned that some of the old wires were knocked down during a super typhoon last year. “Don’t touch the ones that look loose,” he said with a smile.

The summit was worth every step. From the top, I could see out over the bay, dotted with karst formations and floating fishing villages. It looked like a painted postcard.

Dinner, New Friends, and Glowing Waters

Back at the homestay that evening, I joined six other travelers for a communal dinner. We came from different countries and various walks of life, but we swapped stories over bowls of rice, fresh vegetables, and grilled fish.

Later that night, some of us went on a special kayak trip. My flip-flop wearing guide from earlier led us into a quiet cove, with dark water lapping around. We boarded some kayaks that were probably as old as I was and paddled carefully into the water.

Something magical happened: bioluminescent phytoplankton began to shimmer beneath our paddles. Every stroke lit up the water like stardust. I was in awe. Photos don’t truly capture the experience of seeing glowing trails rippled throughout the inky black water.

It was one of those precious travel moments where time slows down. I felt small in the best way.

And that was only Day 1.

To be continued…